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General Knowledge on Fabric Woven Structures

2015-2-10 9:01:56

1. Primary weaves:

    There are three primary weaves which are plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.

    Plain weave is the simplest weave. It is produced by making the warp and weft interlace under and

over alternate weft and warp yarns respectively. Fabrics in this structure are widely used for cotton

and polyester/cotton sheeting and shirtings. Poplin, chintz, valitin, palace, pongee, habotai and taffeta

are commonly used examples of these.

    Twill weave is produced by interlacing yarns to form diagonal lines or ridges across the fabric. This

structure is used for sturdy products such as denim, gabardine, serge and khaki. They are commonly

used as the shell fabrics for uniforms.

    Satin can be divided into warp face satin and weft face satin which is called sateen. The most is the

warp face satin, in which the weft yarns cross over one and under several warp yarns, and thus mainly

the warp yarns are visible on the face of the fabric. The fabric in satin weave is with a smooth and

lustrous surface and commonly used for upholstery, home decorating and fashionable apparel.

2. Derivative weaves

    As the name implies, derivative weaves are derived through some variations to the primary weaves.

The derivatives of primary weaves include:

    Plain weave derivatives: rib weaves, hopsack weaves, etc.

    Twill weave derivatives: reinforced twill, compound twill, angled twill, curved twill, waved or pointed

twill, broken twill, diamond twill, zigzag twill, entwined twill, etc.

    Satin derivatives: reinforced satin, rearranged satin, etc.

3. Combined weaves

    Fabric woven with primary weaves usually has a smooth surface. The plain weave has an even and

regular surface. On the face of twill fabrics there are distinct diagonal lines. The face of satin weave

fabric is smooth and lustrous due to uniform arrangement of single warp floats.

    Contrary to primary weaves the combined weaves produce irregular or uneven fabric surface or small

woven figures on the fabric. These weaves are constructed on the basis of two or more primary weaves

and their derivatives.

    Combined weaves may be divided into the following groups: strip and check weaves, crepe weaves,

mock leno weaves, huckaback, honeycomb weaves, Bedford weaves and distorted weaves.

 

Reference books: 《Yarns and Fabrices》, 《Woven Structure and Design》

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